Just in case anyone is curious, here are all of the lightsabers I have at this point in time.
Left to right, top to bottom: Hasbro Force FX Black Series Luke ANH, Kyberlight, 2X UltraSaber Aeon V2, UltraSabers Dominix LE V2, UltraSabers Aeon V3, UltraSabers Dominix V3, UltraSabers Aeon LE V4, UltraSabers Dominix LE V4, UltraSabers Sentinel V4, UltraSabers Dark Sentinel V4, UltraSabers Initiate LE V4, UltraSabers Consular, SaberForge Acolyte, SaberForge Prodigy, SaberForge Phoenix.
Some of those are empty hilts, I’m in the process of doing things with them. The SaberForge Phoenix was empty when I took that picture, a week or so before I built the saber.
Yes, it’s another lightsaber. The Force wills it.
I forgot about these until someone on a forum mentioned action figures.
Back in 1999, I decided I was going to get all of the Episode I action figures. Don’t ask why, I just did. Anyway, I’ve had all of these in a box for ages, so I decided to take it all out and snap some photos.
That’s quite a group, I almost didn’t fit them all on the dresser. 😉
I was going to do a long post for this, but my heart just isn’t in it. I’m amazed I even put this thing together yesterday, considering that I wasn’t really in the mood. However, I’m not one to waste resources, and I finally got all of the parts for this, so here it is:
Just a quick rundown on what I did: As I said in the video, the saber was a grab bag Dark Sentinel from Ultra Sabers. The soundboard is a Pico Crumble (Light Side version) from Plecter Labs. I’ve wanted to build a saber with one of those since they released it. The wiring on it was even trickier than I thought, mostly because I haven’t actually soldered to a printed circuit board since the mid 1990s and this thing is TINY. But, I got it all soldered and I’m actually amazed that it works. The switch is, unfortunately, bad, so I’m going to need to replace that. But, that happens with electronics. I used the same kind of connectors on my Consular, so I just tried the switches in opposite hilts. The Consular switch worked great in the Sentinel, while the Sentinel switch had the same kind of issues in the Consular. So, bad switch. The LEDs are quad Crees that are in red, green, blue, white. I ordered five of them on Ebay from Hong Kong at a lower price than TCSS charges for a single tri Cree. Plus, these have all of the LEDs in the center, allowing me to use the single LED optic, so no issues like I had with the Consular.
Anywho, that’s what I have. This will probably be my last saber for a while. I have a bunch of empty hilts, but they can wait until I’m more in the mood. Plus, this stuff is expensive. In pieces, not so much, but add those pieces together and it’s a lot. Look for the return of CGI in the near future. 😎
Fun fact: According to WordPress, I registered my account 8 years ago today.
Anyway, moving along. I did a little something to my Consular:
And, I brutalized my switch:
But, I have a new switch on the way from the same Ebay seller, so it’s all good.
Qui-Gon Jinn. Arguably ties for coolest character created for the Star Wars prequels, needlessly cut down by a plot device to force a young and inexperienced Obi-Wan Kenobi to do a poor job training Anakin Skywalker. However, his lightsaber would then be used to make his killer (and the guy he’s tied with for the coolest character award mentioned previously) half the man he used to be. Personally, I think both the man and the saber are really cool. I bought a cheap plastic Qui-Gon hilt way back in 1999, but I’ve been wanting a real one for ages. 18 years later, it’s happened.
Just a quick follow up to yesterday’s video. This one details some configuration changes I made to the board, including changing sound fonts and changing my blade flicker settings. I also increased the swing sensitivity. I love how simple this board is to configure.
Meanwhile, adding blog posts with my phone is a pain in the ass. But, I didn’t have time to post this before leaving the house. ::)
Well, I built my first lightsaber today. I decided to do my first one using a Dominix V3 hilt from Ultra Sabers. This hilt wasn’t very expensive, less so than ordering parts and putting one together. Since I had a lot of other stuff to buy that I won’t have to buy next time, (soldering iron, solder, etc.) I figured to keep costs down on the saber itself. Now, just to be clear, this isn’t a money saving way to go, as opposed to buying the saber itself from Ultra Sabers. Complete with blade, this saber is $69.99 USD. I paid probably a bit more than that for all my parts and didn’t get a blade. Plus, I ordered electronics from another site, so I had to pay for shipping there as well. This is more of a challenge thing than a money saver. Truth be told, you can’t build a saber of this quality for less than Ultra Sabers charges for them.
Anyway, this is what I started out with:
I have my hilt, LED, thermal tape, optic holder, optic, switch, heatsink, resistor and battery holder.
And, of course, I also had wire, heat shrink tubing, soldering iron, solder, heat gun, safety glasses, wire snips, tweezers, helping hands (soldering tool) and electrical tape. I wasn’t going to use the tape, but I accidentally ordered the wrong size of heat shrink tubing and I can’t find small enough locally. I didn’t want to pay for more shipping, so I just went with electrical tape.
I mentioned the lightsabers I own in my previous post. Since I mentioned them, I figure it’s only fair to show them. These are my seven Ultra Sabers stunt sabers:
Left to right: Initiate LE V4, Sentinel V4, Aeon V2, Aeon V2, Aeon LE V4, Aeon V3, Dark Sentinel V4
All of them are stunt sabers, meaning they have no sound. But, I can pretty easily upgrade all of them, except the two Aeon V2s. Those are thinner, so putting sound in one of them would be problematic. While these are “plain” hilts, the upgrade possibilities are nearly endless. Also, if one were to try learning lightsaber combat and/or spinning, any of these hilts would be ideal.
I couldn’t take the cheap belt that came with my costume, so I ordered a better one. Not only was the one that came with the costume cheaper, but it also didn’t fit me so well. This one does. It came with the belt, which is a thicker, higher quality pleather than the one that came with the costume, three plastic pouches made to look like the ones from the films and eight of the little food capsules. All of that for $60. That’s not bad, considering that the belt and pouches are almost $40 individually and the food capsules are $20. One of the food capsules has a crack in it (the one not attached to the belt) but such is life. I’ll probably just leave it off, as I like that asymmetrical look anyway. One interesting thing is that the tops unscrew from the food capsules. Also, the pouches are held closed by magnets and a couple of the magnets in the medium sized pouch came out of their slots, but some super glue should take care of that. Also, this belt got to me from Singapore quite quickly. Seven days before Halloween, and two days before the low end of the estimate. Overall, I’m very happy.
The Covertec clip didn’t come with it, that’s one I got from Ultra Sabers.