Well, it’s starting to look more like a lightsaber:
I knew the grips had adhesive on them, but I thought the screws also held them in place. Nope, they’re entirely decorative. They only go into the plastic, not into the metal. Anyway there’s not much else I can do with this thing until I get more parts. Though, I do need to figure out what to do about this:
I have a few ideas. It’s one of those things people don’t mention when they talk about these hilt kits.
A little something I got in the mail yesterday, direct from Korbanth:
It’s a kit to make my very own Anakin/Luke/Rey lightsaber, modeled after a Graflex camera flash from the ’40s. The kit is really cool, it comes with parts to make any version of the hilt from the first film through TFA/TLJ. It’s going to be pretty sick, once I get the other parts to build the saber. I’m going to be doing it in TFA/TLJ style, which is a combination of the configurations from the original film and Empire. The only thing I’m not thrilled with on this kit is the glass eye, because it’s not a glass eye. I’ll have to replace that with something that looks better. Otherwise, it’s a great replica.
And, probably more importantly, direct from China:
It’s a Sega Genesis pirate cart, basically. I already own a bunch of the games on it, either in physical form or on licensed emulation based consoles. I bought this more out of curiosity than anything, I just wanted to see how good quality these pirate carts were, which isn’t very high. It feels cheap and rattles more than a real Genesis cart, but it played fine in my Super RetroTrio, not as much in my Sega Genesis Flashback HD. It read the cart, but I could only play a handful of the games due to how the Flashback HD dumps the carts onto the console and then runs the games through emulation software.
Anyway, that’s what I have for the day. Day 6 of 6 in a row coming up at work, then I get 3 off. Someone else who is also a supervisor wanted the past 4 days off, so I reworked my days so that I could be there, since one of us has to be. So, I get a nice little 3 day coming up as a side effect. 😎
Just in case anyone is curious, here are all of the lightsabers I have at this point in time.
Left to right, top to bottom: Hasbro Force FX Black Series Luke ANH, Kyberlight, 2X UltraSaber Aeon V2, UltraSabers Dominix LE V2, UltraSabers Aeon V3, UltraSabers Dominix V3, UltraSabers Aeon LE V4, UltraSabers Dominix LE V4, UltraSabers Sentinel V4, UltraSabers Dark Sentinel V4, UltraSabers Initiate LE V4, UltraSabers Consular, SaberForge Acolyte, SaberForge Prodigy, SaberForge Phoenix.
Some of those are empty hilts, I’m in the process of doing things with them. The SaberForge Phoenix was empty when I took that picture, a week or so before I built the saber.
Yes, it’s another lightsaber. The Force wills it.
I forgot about these until someone on a forum mentioned action figures.
Back in 1999, I decided I was going to get all of the Episode I action figures. Don’t ask why, I just did. Anyway, I’ve had all of these in a box for ages, so I decided to take it all out and snap some photos.
That’s quite a group, I almost didn’t fit them all on the dresser. 😉
I was going to do a long post for this, but my heart just isn’t in it. I’m amazed I even put this thing together yesterday, considering that I wasn’t really in the mood. However, I’m not one to waste resources, and I finally got all of the parts for this, so here it is:
Just a quick rundown on what I did: As I said in the video, the saber was a grab bag Dark Sentinel from Ultra Sabers. The soundboard is a Pico Crumble (Light Side version) from Plecter Labs. I’ve wanted to build a saber with one of those since they released it. The wiring on it was even trickier than I thought, mostly because I haven’t actually soldered to a printed circuit board since the mid 1990s and this thing is TINY. But, I got it all soldered and I’m actually amazed that it works. The switch is, unfortunately, bad, so I’m going to need to replace that. But, that happens with electronics. I used the same kind of connectors on my Consular, so I just tried the switches in opposite hilts. The Consular switch worked great in the Sentinel, while the Sentinel switch had the same kind of issues in the Consular. So, bad switch. The LEDs are quad Crees that are in red, green, blue, white. I ordered five of them on Ebay from Hong Kong at a lower price than TCSS charges for a single tri Cree. Plus, these have all of the LEDs in the center, allowing me to use the single LED optic, so no issues like I had with the Consular.
Anywho, that’s what I have. This will probably be my last saber for a while. I have a bunch of empty hilts, but they can wait until I’m more in the mood. Plus, this stuff is expensive. In pieces, not so much, but add those pieces together and it’s a lot. Look for the return of CGI in the near future. 😎
Fun fact: According to WordPress, I registered my account 8 years ago today.
Anyway, moving along. I did a little something to my Consular:
And, I brutalized my switch:
But, I have a new switch on the way from the same Ebay seller, so it’s all good.
Qui-Gon Jinn. Arguably ties for coolest character created for the Star Wars prequels, needlessly cut down by a plot device to force a young and inexperienced Obi-Wan Kenobi to do a poor job training Anakin Skywalker. However, his lightsaber would then be used to make his killer (and the guy he’s tied with for the coolest character award mentioned previously) half the man he used to be. Personally, I think both the man and the saber are really cool. I bought a cheap plastic Qui-Gon hilt way back in 1999, but I’ve been wanting a real one for ages. 18 years later, it’s happened.
Just a quick follow up to yesterday’s video. This one details some configuration changes I made to the board, including changing sound fonts and changing my blade flicker settings. I also increased the swing sensitivity. I love how simple this board is to configure.
Meanwhile, adding blog posts with my phone is a pain in the ass. But, I didn’t have time to post this before leaving the house. ::)
Well, I built my first lightsaber today. I decided to do my first one using a Dominix V3 hilt from Ultra Sabers. This hilt wasn’t very expensive, less so than ordering parts and putting one together. Since I had a lot of other stuff to buy that I won’t have to buy next time, (soldering iron, solder, etc.) I figured to keep costs down on the saber itself. Now, just to be clear, this isn’t a money saving way to go, as opposed to buying the saber itself from Ultra Sabers. Complete with blade, this saber is $69.99 USD. I paid probably a bit more than that for all my parts and didn’t get a blade. Plus, I ordered electronics from another site, so I had to pay for shipping there as well. This is more of a challenge thing than a money saver. Truth be told, you can’t build a saber of this quality for less than Ultra Sabers charges for them.
Anyway, this is what I started out with:
I have my hilt, LED, thermal tape, optic holder, optic, switch, heatsink, resistor and battery holder.
And, of course, I also had wire, heat shrink tubing, soldering iron, solder, heat gun, safety glasses, wire snips, tweezers, helping hands (soldering tool) and electrical tape. I wasn’t going to use the tape, but I accidentally ordered the wrong size of heat shrink tubing and I can’t find small enough locally. I didn’t want to pay for more shipping, so I just went with electrical tape.